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COMMUNITY Tips on buying a used car

Allergens

Me I'm Supa Fly
Lots of knowledge on this board, lots of untapped knowledge. Those of you in the know of what goes on behind the scenes at a dealership. Or maybe you’ve gained enough experience doing it.

What are tips and tricks you can share with folk when it comes to buying a used car? Please don’t come wit buy new and pay monthly.

Of course that’s an option but a lot of people ain’t with that. So please lace us wit game if u can
 
Shit that's a very open subject...
•First off RESEARCH..that can't be stressed
•That Carfax is important you need to know this history of what your investing in!
•Go in knowing what you wanna pay and don't settle for their price. They will haggle bc they want that sale
•GAP insurances is a scam!
•Don't go in like a novice, they will sucker you into that pinto no one wants!
 
If you're in a city make sure it wasn't being used as a taxi or full time Uber (especially Camrys).

Make sure the car wasn't flood damaged. With all the fucked up weather these days there are a lot of these and they can turn up anywhere since people in places likely to flood will be more likely to know what to look for.
 
If you're in a city make sure it wasn't being used as a taxi or full time Uber (especially Camrys).

Make sure the car wasn't flood damaged. With all the fucked up weather these days there are a lot of these and they can turn up anywhere since people in places likely to flood will be more likely to know what to look for.
Check the trunk under the spare tire for damage concerning that!
 
Shit that's a very open subject...
•First off RESEARCH..that can't be stressed
•That Carfax is important you need to know this history of what your investing in!
•Go in knowing what you wanna pay and don't settle for their price. They will haggle bc they want that sale
•GAP insurances is a scam!
•Don't go in like a novice, they will sucker you into that pinto no one wants!

GAP isn't a scam with new cars.

But with used cars, know the bluebook value and worst case scenario if you get a loan and owe more than whats it's worth, you omly getting what it shows in bluebook from insurance companies if its totaled in an accident. So if you aint willing to come outta pocket for the difference, then it's worth it.
 
The price that you want to pay needs to include taxes, tags, and document fees.
This. Also Don't fall for the extended warranty they will push.

Take a mechanic or 2 with you to inspe t the car if you are not savvy.

Again, your price is your price. Look up other dealerships in the area for comparison on price and car features.

If buying used, I always make them put new tires on, and align the shit. This will save you money and gas in the short and long term.

If they try to hardball you, walk out on their ass, they will either come to terms or lose the sale.

Try to buy near the end of the month or quarter, niggas be desperate to make numbers look good, will do more to meet your demands.

If there are any blemishes,rips,defects,anything that doesn't work or match , make em fix that shit or make em knock off money.

Go on the dealership site or cargurus,autotrader,etc. See how long the car been listed/sitting on the lot. If it's been on the lot 30 days plus, you have more power to negotiate.

If you find a car that you like, don't show that shit. They gonna try to hardball you.

Remember, this is your finances, fuck them niggas and their price, there are millions of niggas selling cars who want your money.
 
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I work in auto insurance and can tell you for a fact that Carfax reports aren’t worth the paper they’re printed on. If a wreck didn’t result in a police report, and the car didn’t get repaired at a dealer, it is never gonna show up on the Carfax report. I get people every day telling me their Carfax is clean and then I run an ISO search and find there’s been several collision claims on the car. Carfax is a BS tool dealers use to low ball you on a trade-in offer.
 
And an accident history really isn’t a big deal these days with one caveat. Reputable body shops have the ability to make cars better than they were out the factory. Where you get problems is when niggas try and save money by going to hole in the wall shops that skimp on the repairs.

Just test drive it and make sure all the panels line up and what not. If you see an accident on the report use that shit to your advantage to negotiate a low low price. Trust me that dealer just wants to get it off his lot ASAP.
 
And an accident history really isn’t a big deal these days with one caveat. Reputable body shops have the ability to make cars better than they were out the factory. Where you get problems is when niggas try and save money by going to hole in the wall shops that skimp on the repairs.

As long as there wasn't any frame damage.
 
As long as there wasn't any frame damage.

Again, proceed with caution, but reputable shops can laser measure a frame to where it’s more accurate than manufacturer specs. Just make sure you test drive it and listen for any odd noises at any speed.
 
GAP isn't a scam with new cars.

But with used cars, know the bluebook value and worst case scenario if you get a loan and owe more than whats it's worth, you omly getting what it shows in bluebook from insurance companies if its totaled in an accident. So if you aint willing to come outta pocket for the difference, then it's worth it.
I got duked before bc I didn't know what it was and after I looked at my contract I'm like GAP wtf?!!!

Something they don't tell you is if you pay off your car fast , that have to give you the difference back from that GAP coverage! ..minor scam
 
And all initial communication with dealers should be by email, that way you have everything documented. It’s crucial to know the exact year, make, model, and trim you want. Once they give you their lowest offer, forward that to another dealer to see if they’ll beat/match it, then forward that offer back to the first dealer and so on and so forth. Play them against each other and make sure you have the absolute lowest number before you even step foot on their lot.
 
here's one more from my own personal opinion... if you need a car for just random shit and not every day use - think about buying a little 1-2 grand or less joint and just running that shit into the ground and don't get your emotions or credit involved.
 
The price that you want to pay needs to include taxes, tags, and document fees.

A.K.A. "Out The Door Price"

I suggest people to not pay dealer fees (paperwork, washing the car) b/c it's bullshit, but if they ain't tryna come up off that just add it into your Out The Door Price or what your willing to pay for the car in total.

Btw, dealer fees shouldn't be higher than 250. I've heard of astronomical numbers in that regard.
 
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